Category Archives: Trip Reports

TR-Guadalupe Peak April 23, 1985

It’s been quite a while since my first climb up Texas’ highest point, Guadalupe Peak (8,751′ now, was listed at 8,749′ then). I don’t have any notes from that hike; just fuzzy memories and some fuzzier photos from an old point & shoot Nikon I used to borrow from my dad.

me, approaching summit in '85.
me, approaching summit in ’85.

I was twenty-seven years old, still in the middle of my offshore oilfield career. I had read the old “Trails of the Guadalupes” guide, published by the Carlsbad Caverns Natural History Association, backwards and forwards while working on out in the Gulf of Mexico and had decided I needed to go see Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GUMO) and climb the highest mountain in Texas.

I went to Big Bend National Park first, then on to GUMO arriving very early in the morning of the 22nd of April, 1985. I don’t even think I camped there that week; I may have stayed in the parking lot of the rest area up the road a few miles the first night, then possibly a motel in Carlsbad. I hiked McKittrick Canyon that first day, then I think overnight in Carlsbad and Guadalupe Peak the second day.

There wasn’t any visitor center back then; just an old galvanized metal shed at Frijole. Don’t recall if I stopped there or not.

I started reasonably early that morning I think. The weather was sunny, windy and chilly. The wind really began to howl and push me around as I ascended up the trail the first mile or two, especially the part where it is blasted right out of the solid limestone cliff. I remember feeling a bit apprehensive and unsteady as the wind really was moving me around as I made a switchback which put me on the opposite side of the cliff and suddenly the wind was gone.

 There’s a conveniently situated boulder not far past that mini-pass, a nice place for a brief respite. The trail then leads through a forest of tall conifers which may be a surprise to those who didn’t expect it.  Some years remnants of winter snows may linger for months as packed snow and ice here on the north-facing slope, but there was none on this trip.

The trail emerges from the forest, and over the last mile or so one passes a couple of spots which may excite the acrophobic folks, one with a bit of exposure and one little wooden bridge to cross; and then the designated backcountry campsite turnoff.

Finally, I saw the horse hitching posts just below the summit, and then I was on top of the peak; actually a large flat summit area. I enjoyed the wonderful views in all directions, somewhat interrupted by Hunter (8,368′) and Shumard (8,615′) peaks to the Northeast and North, respectively. I was alone for a while, then another young man arrived; we took each others pictures on the summit.

Looking over El Capitan
Looking south over El Capitan
Me on the summit plateau 1985. Shumard Peak behind me.
Me on the summit plateau 1985. Shumard Peak behind me.

Since this trip report is from memory and not from written notes I can’t say anything about the return hike other than it wasn’t memorable.

One thing about the summit of Guadalupe Peak I didn’t realize at the time has to do with the view, and it took me years (maybe after my 1997 summit hike?) to figure it out. The vast majority of hikers, including me, will do this hike starting in the morning, arriving at the summit a couple of hours either side of noon, then returning. As any photographer knows, the noon hours are the worst for shooting landscape, as the colors wash out and there is little shadow relief to highlight terrain.  This would lead me to do an overnight to the summit fifteen years later (in February 2000) and I would be rewarded for my patience.

TR-Guadalupe Peak 1997

A very brief trip report.
I climbed Mt Wheeler, highpoint of New Mexico, in summer 1997. Along the way, to get some altitude and conditioning in, I summited Guadalupe Peak again.

I’d started out from Austin and stopped in Davis Mountains State Park. I got up early in the morning and drove to GUMO. I have some notes from this trip:

On to Guad Park–(Note: Dawn (light) not until ~7:00 a.m. CDT here.)

Arrived GMNP ~9:00 CDT. Wx excellent ~50s, -60; light breeze, clear sky. Park almost deserted. Asked young woman behind counter about old Pine Spring Cafe-she didn’t know-was before my time.)

Began ascent ~ 9:50 a.m. CDT-one break past (that place*) (at 1:08 of hike.) in the first extensive forest. Felt good-last 1/4 mile was hell, through several false summits. Summit at 12:45 CDT (2:57 hatse??less 18 minutes in breaks is 2:39 hike. Dead calm at summit. [at summit 35:07; 1:48 for descent-5:20 less 18 less 35:07 = 4:55 total hike – sign at trailhead suggests 6-8 hours.]

“That place” mentioned above, I now remember, is the spot after you finish the first part of the climb. You hike up a steep limestone wall, basically, with some of the trail literally blasted out of the side of solid stone; depending on the wind that day, you may be buffeted by 40-50 mph winds. I was, the first time I’d done that hike in the 80s. But you come around a bend, and almost magically the wind goes to nothing and you’re in a forest. And not far ahead are convenient boulders to sit on and rest a spell.

And that’s all, folks!

 

TR-GUMO Shumard backcountry site 11/16/2017

Gaiamaps link

Tracklog out to Shumard Backcountry site
Tracklog out to Shumard Backcountry site

CalTopo map

I spent most of a week in mid-November (2017) at Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GUMO). Camped 4 days/nights; at Pine Spring CG and in the middle an out/back overnight to the Shumard Canyon backcountry site. I don’t have a *lot* of info to add; i’ve done the El Cap/Overlook trail several times over the decades so didn’t take many photos. I had never done the Shumard Canyon stretch before so this was all new to me. It turned out to be quite challenging due to the trail conditions, and I took very few pics (even though i’d intended to do some night photography). That happens. Continue reading TR-GUMO Shumard backcountry site 11/16/2017

Wheeler Peak-New Mexico Highpoint

[Original date August 31, 1997]

Trip report from a hike to the summit of Wheeler Peak, the highest point in New Mexico (13,161′) undertaken August 31, 1997.

Wheeler Peak is the highest point in New Mexico at 13,161′. The hike to the summit via Bull of the Woods is about 15 miles round trip, and has an elevation gain from 9,000 to 13,161′. This climb is non-technical during most of the summer. But extreme care should be taken during the thunderstorm season-July and August-since much of the Wheeler Peak trail is above timberline and exposed. Getting to and off the summit before thunderstorms this time of year will entail a near-dawn departure.

Continue reading Wheeler Peak-New Mexico Highpoint

John Muir Trail Thru-hike 2002

I completed a North to South thru-hike of the John Muir Trail in 2002. Here is a trip report of my hike.

John Muir Trail day 1 – 3 Continue reading John Muir Trail Thru-hike 2002

Arizona Highpoint-Humphreys Peak

Humphrey Peak Wikipedia

In August 2003, on the way to California to my brother’s wedding, I camped near Flagstaff, Arizona and climbed Humphreys Peak, the high point of the state.

The hike starts off in the “Snow Bowl”, a ski area, then winds its way up through the forest until it gets to timberline. Then it hits a saddle; go left to get to the summit of Humphreys.

Snow Bowl and chairlift
Snow Bowl and chairlift
Near the saddle.
Near the saddle.
View near the summit.
View near the summit.
Trail up the summit ridge.
Trail up the summit ridge.
View from the summit of Humphrey's Peak hike AZ Highpoint
View from the summit of Humphrey’s Peak hike AZ Highpoint
View from the summit.
View from the summit.

 

Me at the summit marker.
Me at the summit marker.

 

 

Indian Peaks 2008 Backpacking

I’ve hiked many times in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, just south of Rocky Mountains National Park. This time was a multi-day backpacking trip. Because of the nature of the trail system and the need for permits in advance, I planned a route with a sort of curly-cue path.

Continue reading Indian Peaks 2008 Backpacking

Trip to New Mexico

IMG_2224I  had planned on camping in Dog Canyon, Guadalupe Mountains National Park, as usual; however the campground and entrance had been closed for months. I needed the altitude for my half-marathon prep so I decided to go almost to Dog Canyon and camp in the Lincoln National Forest, just north of GUMO.

 

Me at Start of Shiprock Half-Marathon
Start of Shiprock Half-Marathon